US auto loan · 50-state sales tax + trade-in credit · Full amortization

Auto Loan Calculator

Estimate your real monthly car payment — with your state's sales tax auto-filled, trade-in credit applied, plus fees, down payment and a full interest breakdown. Pick your state to start.

% tax

Texas state rate pre-filled — local city/county tax may add more, so adjust if you know your exact rate.

$
$

14% of price

%
Loan term

Months (5 years)

Your monthly car payment

$639.57

Financing $32,688 for 60 months at 6.5% APR. You'll pay $5,687 in interest — a total of $38,374 over the loan.

How your loan amount is built

Vehicle price+ $35,000
Sales tax (6.25%)+ $2,188
Fees+ $500
Down payment$5,000
Amount financed$32,688

Total interest

$6k

Sales tax

$2k

Total of payments

$38k

Out of pocket

$43k

Where your payments go

Principal $32,688 Interest $5,687
Year-by-year amortization schedule
YearPrincipalInterestBalance
1$5,719$1,956$26,969
2$6,101$1,573$20,868
3$6,510$1,165$14,357
4$6,946$729$7,411
5$7,411$264$0

Estimates for a US auto loan. Monthly payment uses the standard amortization formula on the amount financed = vehicle price + sales tax + fees − down payment − rebate − trade-in equity. State sales-tax rates are state-base rates pre-filled from your state; county and city taxes can add to them, so the rate is editable. Trade-in reduces the taxable price in states that give a trade-in credit (all except California, Virginia, Hawaii and DC). APR, fees and dealer charges vary — confirm exact figures with your lender and dealer. General information, not a loan offer.

Your car payment is more than price ÷ months

The number that actually hits your bank account each month depends on far more than the sticker price. Your amount financed is the vehicle price plus sales tax and fees, minus your down payment, any rebate and your trade-in equity. That total, your APR and your loan term then set the monthly payment through the standard amortization formula. Most calculators make you figure the tax yourself — this one auto-fills your state's vehicle sales-tax ratethe moment you pick your state, applies your state's trade-in rule, and shows every line of how the loan is built, so the payment you see is the real one.

Sales tax and the trade-in credit most people miss

Vehicle sales tax varies enormously — from zero in Alaska, Delaware, Montana, New Hampshire and Oregon to 7%+in states like Kansas, California and Tennessee — and that's before county and city taxes stack on top. The detail that saves real money is the trade-in tax credit: in most states you're taxed only on the price after your trade-in is deducted, so a $15,000 trade-in on a $40,000 car can cut your tax bill by close to a thousand dollars. Four places — California, Virginia, Hawaii and Washington DC— don't allow it and tax the full price. The calculator knows which rule your state follows and applies it for you.

Why the loan term matters so much

Stretching a loan from 60 to 72 or 84 months shrinks the monthly payment, which is why dealers love to quote long terms — but it's a trap worth understanding. Longer loans pile on more total interest and, because cars lose value quickly, keep you underwater(owing more than the car is worth) for years. If your car is totaled or you need to sell during that window, you're on the hook for the gap. A shorter term costs more each month but far less overall and builds equity faster. Flip between 36, 48, 60, 72 and 84 months above to see the trade-off in dollars on your own numbers.

Negative equity: rolling an old loan into a new one

If you still owe more on your current car than it's worth, that gap is negative equity, and dealers will often roll it into your new loan. It's convenient, but it means financing more than your new car costs and starting the next loan already underwater — a cycle that's hard to escape. Enter what you still owe on your trade-in above and the calculator shows exactly how much negative equity is being added to your new loan, so you can decide whether to pay it down first instead.

How much car can you actually afford?

A simple, battle-tested guideline is the 20/4/10 rule: put at least 20% down, finance for no more than 4 years, and keep total transportation costs (payment plus insurance) under 10% of your gross monthly income. It's deliberately conservative, and plenty of buyers stretch it — but it's a fast reality check before you fall for a car at the top of your budget. The smartest sequence: use this calculator to find a payment that fits the rule, get pre-approved by your own bank or credit union for a real rate, and only then walk into the dealership.

Worked example: a $35,000 car in Texas

The setup. You buy a $35,000 vehicle in Texas (6.25% state vehicle tax), put $5,000 down, add about $500 in title and registration fees, and finance the rest at 6.5% APR over 60 months, with no trade-in.

Building the loan. Sales tax is 6.25% of $35,000 = $2,187.50. Add the $500 in fees and subtract your $5,000 down payment, and the amount financed is $32,687.50.

The payment. That comes to about $640 a month, with roughly $5,700 in total interest over the five years — a total of around $38,400 in payments on top of your $5,000 down. Now add a $10,000 trade-in: in Texas it cuts your taxable price to $25,000 (saving about $625 in tax) andreduces the loan, dropping the payment to about $432 a month. Change your state, price or trade-in above and every number — tax included — updates instantly.

Frequently asked questions

How much is a monthly payment on a $30,000 car?

On a $30,000 car with $3,000 down (financing $27,000 plus tax and fees), a 60-month loan at a 7% APR works out to roughly $560–$600 a month once your state's sales tax is added. Stretch it to 72 months and the payment drops to around $480–$510, but you pay noticeably more interest. Put more down, get a lower APR, or pick a shorter term and the number falls. Enter your state, price and down payment above for an exact figure including your local tax.

What is a good APR for a car loan?

It depends heavily on your credit score and whether the car is new or used. As a rough 2026 guide, borrowers with excellent credit (760+) often see new-car APRs in the mid-single digits, while used-car rates and lower credit scores run several points higher. New cars almost always get better rates than used. The single biggest lever on your rate is your credit score, so it's worth checking and improving it before you shop — even a one-point lower APR can save hundreds over the loan. Get pre-approved from your own bank or credit union to compare against the dealer's offer.

Does a trade-in reduce the sales tax on a car?

In most states, yes — and it's a real saving. Forty-plus states tax only the difference between the car's price and your trade-in value, so trading in a $15,000 car against a $40,000 purchase means you're taxed on $25,000, not $40,000. At a 6% rate that's $900 you don't pay. The exceptions are California, Virginia, Hawaii and Washington DC, which tax the full purchase price regardless of trade-in. This calculator applies your state's rule automatically when you enter a trade-in.

Is a 72- or 84-month car loan a bad idea?

Long loans lower your monthly payment but carry real risks. Because cars depreciate fast, a 72- or 84-month loan often leaves you 'underwater' — owing more than the car is worth — for years, which is a problem if you need to sell or it's totaled. You also pay substantially more total interest. They can make sense if you get a low APR and genuinely need the lower payment, but the smarter move is usually the shortest term you can comfortably afford. Toggle between 36, 48, 60, 72 and 84 months above to see exactly how much extra interest each year of term adds.

How much car can I afford?

A widely used guideline is the 20/4/10 rule: put at least 20% down, finance for no more than 4 years (48 months), and keep your total monthly transportation costs — car payment plus insurance — under 10% of your gross monthly income. So on a $6,000-a-month income, you'd aim to keep car payment and insurance combined under about $600. It's a deliberately conservative rule that keeps you from being house-poor on wheels; many people stretch it, but the further you go past it, the more of your budget your car eats. Use the calculator to find a payment that fits.

Should I get pre-approved before going to the dealership?

Almost always, yes. A pre-approval from your own bank or credit union gives you a real interest rate to compare against the dealer's financing, and it turns you into a cash buyer at the lot, which strengthens your negotiating position on the price. Dealers can sometimes beat your pre-approved rate — great, let them — but without it you have no benchmark and may accept a marked-up rate. Pre-approval also caps how much you'll spend, helping you ignore the upsells. Use this calculator to know your target payment first, then get pre-approved, then shop.

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